2007 Wine Dinner Tasting Notes

It appears that the original posting of these notes vanished with the Angel's Share. The following represents tasting notes from the 2007 Wine Dinner held at the Pen & Pencil Club of Philadelphia in October 2007.

NV Heidseick Monopole "Blue Top" Brut
Somewhere, there's a checklist for classic Champagne: toasty aroma, plenty of mousse, crisp, appley flavor, zesty, lemon finish, and a desire to drink another flute immediately. This one checked all those high points. Couldn't have been more well-received by the guests. We served it with Scottish Imperial smoked salmon, dill cream and red onions and its freshness and zestiness cut the rich salmon very well. No, this did not have the breed and richness of Pol Roger, the evanescent lightness of Taittinger, the boldness of Lanson Black Label, the depth of Bollinger ... but it was a very nice middle-of-the-road prototype of a classic. Lasted nicely in the glass, still with crisp mousse 40-45 minutes later. At what we paid ($24) a steal. (And the elegant packaging was a plus ). ****

2004 Zind-Humbrecht Herrenweg de Turckheim Riesling
Now, if the Champagne was a prototypical classic, this was not: not much Riesling tastes like this. Would that more did. Words slightly fail me here because I was so blown away. That ultra-rich aroma, tinged with kerosene, pineapple, perfumed fruit, and hint of vanilla. Pale yellowish color. Massive depth of flavor and structure that hits you right away. Almost Sauternes-like in richness, but racier, and with a mind-blowing fruit finish (esp. apricots) that went on and on and on. Zind's wines are known for depth of flavor and richness. This was all of that. A nervous wine in that the structure had to fight off being swamped by the richness. Not especially sweet for Riesling though as it warmed, the sweetness level amped up. Could age for a decade or more; that might settle the richness down a touch. Good right now. We served it with luscious little crab-and-pimento cakes. This wine would overpower a lot of things; really good crabmeat would be fine. Also some Alsatian cheeses, veal sausages, blue trout would all be good. Not cheap ($32) but worth every penny. ****1/2

2005 David Duband Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits "Louis Auguste"
One word: fresh. From the delightful berry aroma to the entrancing first sip to the grandly sweeping, woody, earthy, Pinot Noir finish, all young and delightful and oh so fresh. Almost as effervescent as a good Beaujolais Cru (a compliment from me). Served lightly chilled - I highly recommend doing so - it was like a wine of young cherries and raspberries, with a fleeting, heady, almost magical Pinot aroma. If 2005 was like this in the Hautes Cotes de Nuits, just imagine what it was like in Gevrey or Chambolle (and given the 2005 prices imagining is what most of us will have to settle for). A pleasant bitterish finish left the palate ready for another bite of creamed portobellos. Excellent value at $25 from a wine shop in Chicago. Can age, but if you can buy village or 1er cru wines and age them and drink this lovely charmer while it's ... fresh. ****

2002 Sociando-Mallet
I have always like this big-shouldered Haut-Medoc (from St. Seurin de Cadbourne, just north of St. Estephe. It shares some of the characteristics of a St. Estephe, notably its firmness and body, but Sociando always drinks better young than do the great St. Estephe wines (or even the less great ones; I had a 2001 St. Estephe, I forget the chateau, in Paris in 2004 that was like drinking a brick wall. A big one). 2002 was one of those in-between vintages in Bordeaux, not a dazzler like 2000 or 2005, not as hot as 2003, but good wines were made, and the Sociando is one of those. All the classic Bordeaux elements: that elusive aroma of earth that says "Bordeaux" before you take a sip - it's what "terroir" is all about - then a jammy, cassis flavor that broadens to tobacco, lead pencil and leather as you swirl in the mouth, then a clean, crisp finish that went on for a while. Layers of flavor that came out in the glass. Not as fruity as, say, a 2003 would have been, and a touch austere for people used to Napa Cabs. Lacked that richness and depth of a top vintage, but also did not cost as much ($32). Perfect with lamb chops. A classic Bordeaux. Could age for 10-15 years, probably best in 2010 or so. My kind of wine. ***1/2

1989 Clos Baudoin (Prince Poniatowski) Vouvray
All of what is good about French wine is in this bottle: the historic plot (a walled vineyard), the family traditions (the Poniatowskis fought with Napoleon), the regional grape (Chenin Blanc in its homeland, the middle Loire Valley), the refusal to pander (some years, the Clos makes wines that are sweet, some years they are dry, depends on the grapes and the weather. You have to know, or ask) and attention to detail and quality. The '84 Clos was one of the best dry whites I have ever had, even after 15 years it had power and lushness. The '90 is all power. The '89 is sweet, but not overly so, pale in color, lovely quince and apricot nose, plenty of acidity to tame the sweetness, and an elegant, sweet/sour finish that went on forever. DO NOT SERVE TOO COLD!!! It will lose its luster and just be a nice quaff. Changes personalities in the glass, becomes pineappley and denser as it warms. We served it with cinnamony bread pudding, but could also go with fruit desserts (but not chocolate or anything overly sweet), foie gras, and even scallops, shrimps or a flatfish. The Prince has sold the Clos and his winery so grab these classics while you can. At $19 the steal of the century. Could age for 40 years. Any I have won't get the chance to last that long. ******

Tasting notes from a glorious weekend

The weekend of 27-30 March offered a wedding, a terrific dinner, and some spectacular wines Given my schedule, it's unusual to have so many nights in a row where wine was a part of my life - it was very pleasant!

Notes in order:

2006 Domaine de Vercheres Macon-Villages
A strange, strange wine. Macon-Villages typically offers clean, crisp, refreshing wine, always Chardonnay lightly oaked if at all, simple but pleasant, good with food. Since this said Macon-Villages on the label, I will assume it was Chardonnay, but to me more like a white Rhone blend or even, at times, a Chenin Blanc - a tad watery, weirdly sweetish, heavy lime taste, not too pale, a little vanilla. Peach at mid-palate, creamy (like a Chenin), limey, short finish. Zero steely crispness typical of Macon. I tasted this before I ordered dinner, and the pork chops in a rich brown sauce - NOT normally what I'd eat with a Macon-Villages - went well. Not at all bad, but wildly untypical of its type. About $9 a bottle. Drink now. ** (at the Pen & Pencil Club, Philadelphia, 3/2008)

2007 Cantina del Castello Soave Classico
Served with wild boar prosciutto (on endive) from the remarkable butcher shop D'Angelo Brothers on 9th St. in Philadelphia's Italian Market - they have every kind of meat you can imagine and some you cannot . I was looking for something light but flavorful to match the cured meat and this was a real winner. Very pale, fruity nose. A hint of fizz, lemony, nutty, clean finish, not long, but lovely while there. Handled the boar and endive well, as its citrus elements cleaned the palate nicely. 12 percent alcohol or so. $17 a bottle, a fair price for hand-made Soave from the best part of the growing area (i.e., the hill, not the plain). Good summer wine. *** (at Chez Bailey, New York, 3/2008)

1996 H. Billiot en Fils Champagne
This and the next three wines came from a spectacular BYOB dinner thanks to the generosity of a wonderful old friend. This was the aperitif. It offered a yeasty apple blast at the beginning - I have never had such an apple-y Champagne - a light mousse, a gentle, mature wine with body and class. The '96's have been the greatest Champagne vintage of the last 15 years and they are starting to be fully mature. This lovely wine is ready now but has the structure and the fruit - all that apple! - to go for a while. My preference is towards more lemony and mineral bubblies, but I'd drink this anytime. Might be really good with a creamy, milder cheese. Now-2012. **** (at La Sirene, New York, 3/2008)

2002 Zind-Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Hunawihr Riesling
A half-bottle. Not as massive as some of the Z-H's I have had over the years - see the 2007 wine dinner report for one of those - but thus perhaps more typical of Alsatian Riesling. Deep, wonderful aroma of apricot and petrol; bags of racy Riesling fruit, nice acidity to balance the fruit and a firm, age-worthy body. Light honey on the long, long finish. It felt a touch stronger than some Rieslings (I did not get the alcohol number but it had to be 12.5 minimum). Delightful with duck salad, though trout or game may have been even better. Now-2017. **** (at La Sirene, New York, 3/2008)

1998 La Conseillante Pomerol
I've had La Conseillante before and always been pleased but somewhat underwhelmed (in Bordeaux I am more of a Left Bank guy), but it is a favorite of my dining group and thus I see it more frequently than any other Pomerol (or Right Bank wine in general). Decanted for roughly an hour. Eucalyptus and mint on the powerful nose at first, then, in a bit, classic Bordeaux nose, not as leathery as the Left Bank, more plummy cassis and hints of cigars (good ones too!). Deep purple color, rich, a hint of sweet, well-balanced, body to spare, refreshing, cassis long finish. A powerhouse. Got better in the glass. Had this with the duck and a rich monkfish stew with mushrooms. Absolutely classic, best La Conseillante I ever had. Good now, will last. And last. Now-2020. ****1/2 (at La Sirene, New York, 3/2008)

1999 Laville Haut Brion Pessac-Leognan blanc
The white of La Mission Haut Brion. White Bordeaux is usually hit with me, though more so from Pessac-Leognan and Graves than the Medoc; I've had Mouton's (Aile d'Argent) and Margaux's (Pavillon Blanc) whites and been, again, pleased but underwhelmed, while I cannot praise Domaine de Chevalier's white (Graves) enough. I came to this wine with much anticipation and excitement and I am pleased to say it delivered though in an unexpected way. In an age of obvious wines that show their hand right at the start, this is a subtle, quiet gem that reveals its pleasures slowly and only to those who are paying attention. Don't guzzle this, don't serve it without food and DO serve it with people whose conversation is as good as the wine because that will stretch the wine and you'll know its secrets better. Palish, golden wine. Minty, subtle nose of citrus and lanolin; more lime and meadow on the palate, a bare hint of grapefruit, and then it goes on and on and on the finish and remained in the mouth as an evanescent memory. Served probably a hair too cold, changed as it warmed, apricot, mint, that meadowy, grassy (in a good way) flavor. Some commentators such as Michael Broadbent suggest this wine could be in a "dumb" (i.e., closed) phase now, which could account for the subtleness of the flavors, but it gives much pleasure. It suited the monkfish stew but would have been so perfect with diver scallops or even simply prepared good pork. A wine for connoisseurs and sophisticated palates. Now-2020? ****1/2 (At La Sirene, New York, 3/2008).

1998 Aubry Champagne
Wow! This one grabs you at the start, bready, zesty nose leaps drom the glass, chalky, minerally, aggressive in a good way. Massive mousse. Lemons and citrus on the palate, not as appley as the Billot. A tremendous aperitif but stood up just fine, indeed amazingly well, to somewhat overcooked prime rib. Oysters or game birds would be a spectacular match. Years to here. I have been loyal to the '96 Champagnes but '98 needs more investigation, will have get on that prompt. A divine wine to toast the wedding of two of my dearest friends - they deserve the best, of course! (They had Pol Roger '96 at the head table; my little party had this wine to ourselves). Festive, a real treat, made the occasion sparkle even more than it did already. Now-2015? More? **** (At The Riviera at Massapequa, Massepequa, New York, 3/2008)

2007 Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand)
The wedding (open) bar's white wine. A commercial product and it shows, the flavors are more obvious and cruder. Served too cold, flat and cloying when too cold. But as it warmed up, hints of lemon, mint and vanilla. Would be a decent beach wine or lunch wine with leftover fish and fowl. OK value at $8. Drink now, if at all. For what it was, OK; could have been a lot worse. *1/2 (At The Riviera at Massapequa, Massepequa, New York, 3/2008).

Next P&P tasting: Brad’s summer favorites

Wines for the deck, grill, picnic, beach and porch will be featured at the next Pen & Pencil Club wine tasting on Thursday, May 22, at 7:30 p.m., at the club, 1522 Latimer St. in Philadelphia. We will be serving four wines that will liven up and enrich summer activities, wines that I serve my family and friends in the warmer months. Cost is $25 and includes appetizers. Sign up at the club or call (215) 731-9909.

Craig LaBan's unfair, inappropriate comparisons

I am a fan of the food writing of The Philadelphia Inquirer's gastronomic critic, Craig LaBan, though that may because I don't own a restaurant. His savage negative reviews are legendary; he carpet-bombed a trendoid haven, Trust, right out of existence a few years ago much to the moans of the smug, overly complacent Philadelphia restaurant community more used to coddling than criticism. (For a recent example of a vicious LaBan pan, see: this.)

For the record, his food criticism that I am informed to comment on seems pretty accurate; if he lacks the generosity of spirit and dry wit of Frank Bruni of the New York Times he can be better on details and zeroes in on faults much more precisely.

LaBan's rather more erratic on the subject of drink; his booze clunkers come often enough so you wish the Inky would hire a wine and spirits critic (fat chance of that, given the economics of journalism these days).

His taste in red wine is, frankly, crass and obvious (fruit bombs away!), though he's much more dependable discussing whites and his work on spirits is admirable.

The latest LaBan wine effort that falls short is this. Besides reading like the winemaker paid him for the story, there's this:

"When we entered the tasting room, I saw his wines posed for a test-sip against two of France's most famous bottles."

Oh boy. Trot out the old beat-up-on-the-French gimmick again. Isn't the more obvious comparison to California wines, given the price point? And the New World origin of the wines? Or maybe to New York State?

"When you want to do something good, you can do it anywhere if you have the passion, dedication and knowledge," Razzi said.

No, you can't. You can't make Bordeaux in Pennsylvania. You can make a good red wine in Pennsylvania, but you can't make Bordeaux. Only the Bordelais can do that.

He then proceeded to pour his 2005 Ameritage, a $55 Bordeaux-style red blend, against a Bordeaux legend, a 1998 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild that runs $253 in Pennsylvania. We sipped his 2005 Chardonnay Reserve ($33.50) against a 2003 Corton-Charlemagne from Laboure-Roi (about $100), one of Burgundy's most storied whites.

Where do we start with the problems here? First, it is utterly unfair to poor Signor Razzi to compare his wine to Mouton-Rothschild, one of the world's greatest and most historic wines! Later in the story other wine experts comment that the red wine matches up with lesser Bordeaux wines. Why not use one of those, taking care to match Mr. Razzi's cepage (nebbiolo?) as much as possible - sounds like Cos-Labory, d'Armilhac, or Gloria might work.

And then the unfairness reverses. To have white Burgundy, at its height perhaps the world's most sublime white wine, represented by the wine chosen is ludicrous. First, 2003 was a notoriously hot summer in France (it was the horrible summer that so many elderly people died of heat-related illnesses) and the wine made that year all over France was fat, flabby, baked, completely atypical. And while certain American critics raved about the vintage, one Bordeaux wine maker noted, "We didn't think it was very good. But then (the American critic) raved, so we knew ..." 2003 was probably the weakest white Burgundy vintage of the 21st century so far.

Then to pick a wine from a Laboure-Roi, one of Burgundy's most pedestrian and dull winemakers, one unlikely to deal too well with 2003's special challenges, compounds the problem.

Corton-Charlemagne is unquestionably one of the great vineyards of the Cote d'Or, but a 2003 C-C from Laboure-Roi is simply not going to be anything like a Grand Cru should be. I'd bet many wines would taste as good.

These kind of missteps make me wary of the judgments that follow:

Remarkably, the Penns Woods wines held their own quite well - even if they did not have quite the resonance or complexity of those French classics. The Ameritage, mostly cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot (with a splash of nebbiolo), was plush with licorice, cassis and cedar, riper and more balanced than almost any other local red I've tasted. The chardonnay was touched with butterscotch and zesty tangerine, but also braced with a long and flinty, mineral finish. Other Penns Woods wines, such as the lively sauvignon blanc and rich gold pinot grigio, were also impressive.

Rich Pinot Grigio? Well, maybe.

I'd like to try Mr. Razzi's wines, though their pricing, as LaBan notes, is not enticing. (For $50 I can drink good Bordeaux, for $33 Premier Cru Chablis or village Chassagne-Montrachet, Beaune, or Meursault.)

But this kind of wine writing does not help the cause. Comparisons need to be with well-made wines that match the wines being tasted, not just by spending a lot of money on big names. And the comparisons need to be fair.

LaBan would cringe at comparing haute cuisine to a crêperie, but he's made the same kind of mistake here.

On pizza, guanciale and wine

I never know what wine to drink with pizza. I have had a long fondness for beer with my pizza, but generally only draft beer, for reasons I cannot explain except that I drank a lot of draft in West Philadelphia, Princeton and Highwood (Ill.) bars with pizza in the 1980’s and 1990’s. The beer wasn't usually very good (Rolling Rock, Stroh’s), but then neither was the ‘za (an old Nassauian bit of slang, that); still, they seemed to do well together. (The Blatz dark at Buffo’s in Highwood especially so.)

But when confronted with good pizza, I am often at a loss. (I should say right away that none of this applies to Chicago deep-dish pizza, which is a huge favorite of mine and goes well with beer, almost any beer [I like Goose Island or Old Style]; I couldn’t imagine drinking wine with deep-dish.) Good, thin-crust, wood- or coal-oven baked pizza: I love it. What wine goes with it?

I don’t know. I’ve tried Chianti, Beaujolais-Villages, Chinon, Lambrusco, Uruguayan tannat, Cotes de Provence rose, Zinfandel, even cava, and nothing seems to be spot-on. A good lager or pilsner are, but I’d love to find a wine to match.

So when confronted with a wood-baked thin-crust pie topped with homemade guanciale (cured meat from the pig’s jowl) and egg in Brooklyn recently, I hoped I had found my answer in a well-aged (2000) Barbera d’Asti from a friend’s cellar.

Verdict: outstanding pizza, good wine, bad match, again. Sigh. Pizza rocked, tangy, spicy, the meat, a real revelation, never had it before, like luxury bacon spiked with cloves, the egg a neat touch, loved the tomatoes and the tangy cheese slathered on the almost-perfect crust (a little soft in the center but the edges, woof).

The wine, from Prunotto, was dark, inky, austere, deep, not a whole lot of fruit, tannic, gripping, dry in that thirst-inducing way Piedmontese wines can be. Together, they quarreled, the pizza’s fresh flavors warring with the wine’s deep austerity. The wine needed mushrooms, or spicy meat. The pizza needed, well, I’d have settled for some of that old Blatz Dark with it, I think. The hunt continues.

2000 Prunotto Barbera d'Asti: **1/2 (at Roberta’s [well worth a visit at the Morgan Ave. L train stop, get pizza, chocolate-amoretto cake and the cheese plate] Bushwick, Brooklyn, 4/2008).