Wines from Places You Didn't Know Made Wine: The Report

Very well attended and it appeared that fun was had by all.

In speaking to many guests, I was struck by the wide variety of opinions on the wines. The same wine that several people disliked intensely won raves a table over -- and for the same reasons, sometimes ("It was too tannic" vs. "I loved all that tannin")! Most times, there's one wine of the four that everybody loves and one that many were less enthusiastic about. Not this time.

My tasting notes (in the order they were served):

Ziahtina Katumar White 2003 (Croatia) Made by the Katumar family on the island of Krk (Croatians hate vowels) in the northern Adriatic, this one puts the lie to the thought that most Balkan wines are crude and obvious. An elegant, gutsy white with a zingy, almost sherryesque finish. In some ways like a citrusy (dry) white Bordeaux with a lot more zip. Scents of ripe peaches and plums. Yum. I suspect the age on the wine helped boost the flavor and lusciousness factor. A wonderful summery white that could even go with your fancier seafood preparations or Mediterranean-style poultry. Also a delight by itself. To me, the best wine at the tasting. Available at Astor Wines in New York for $12. ***1/2 (with hummus at the Pen and Pencil Club, Philadelphia, 4/2007)

Tannat Monte de Luz 2005 (Uruguay). This wine drew the most strong feelings. Several patrons raved and raved and raved while one veteran taster called it the worst wine I'd ever served at a P&P event. Tannat will do that. It makes thick, black, intense wines that need careful elevage and care to be palatable. The wines of Madiran in Southwest France are the true glory of Tannat, but Uruguay has fallen for Tannat with a Gallic passion. There are, however, better expressions of Tannat in Uruguay than this one; a massive, fruity and somewhat obvious wine. Loads of finish, if a little crude, after a powerful, blocky time on the tongue. Tannat can be spicy in Madiran; this was less spicy and more brutish. Age would have helped, I think. At the price ($7 at Astor) a fair value with grilled meats, sausages and other such hearty fare. Not bad, not great. ** (with Moliterno {Sardinian sheep cheese] at the Pen and Pencil Club, Philadelphia, 4/2007)

Yakut Kavakliere Dry 2005 (Turkey) Making wine in a Muslim country, even such a secular one such as Turkey, cannot be easy. but the Kavakliere winery has been in operation since 1929 near Ankara. This wine shows why they've lasted that long. It blends indigenous Anatolian grapes (Okuzgozu and Bogazkere) with that stalwart of Languedoc vin de table plonk, Carignan. The Turkish grapes add the spice, Carignan the body for a delightful light-ish red. With a slight chill, a good cocktail-party red, or with crudites, lighter cheeses, the like. A refreshing berry-esque aroma and flavor, not much of a finish, pleasant in the middle. $13 at Astor, maybe a little pricey. Nothing too dramatic or powerful; does there always have to be? **1/2 (At the Pen and Pencil Club, 4/2007)

Cuvee Rouge Musar 2003 (Lebanon) Speaking of hard places to make wine, the Hochar family has been doing so since 1930 in Lebanon's Bekaa Valley, better known for bombings and terrorists than Bordeaux-style blends and terroir. Yet Chateau Musar, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Carignan/Cinsault blend, has been considered one of the great red wines of the world. This is the second wine of Musar and it adds Syrah to the unoaked blend. The result is a terrific and gutsy Rhone-style wine blowing away most uninspired Cotes du Rhones and the like. To me like a baby Chateauneuf de Pape with its spice, raciness and depth of flavor. Lighter in color than most Rhones but denser in flavor. Many patrons, however, found it harsh and lacking in charm, and that could be from an excess of Syrah -- I find the same faults in most Australian Cab/Shiraz blends, but did not find them here. This could certainly age 2-3 more years or perhaps more. A solid value at $19 (Astor) that will go well with virtually anything you'd serve red wine with (though a match with a good daube de Provence or grilled lamb in a honey sauce would be sublime). Makes me lust after the real thing, frankly. ***(With Meditterranean chicken and salad at the Pen and Pencil Club, Philadelphia, 4/2007.)